What's Your Fitzpatrick Skin Type, and Why Is It Important in Skin Care?

Photo: Kei Moreno

In addition to lifestyle and age, another important factor that I consider in my treatments is my client’s Fitzpatrick skin type. According to Healthline, it’s a scientific system that “classifies skin type according to the amount of pigment your skin has and your skin’s reaction to sun exposure.”

So why do you need to know your Fitzpatrick skin type? First of all, it helps to “predict your overall risk of sun damage and skin cancer,” says Healthline. When it comes to facials or hair removal, it’s important that I understand my client’s skin texture, tone, and sensitivity so that I can use the most appropriate ingredients and treatments.

It’s worth noting that the Fitzpatrick skin type scale won’t tell you how to find the right shade of tinted moisturizer. I also believe that no matter your skin type, you should always wear at least an SPF 30 sunscreen and UV blocking sunglasses to protect your eyes. I always recommend that my clients avoid tanning beds whenever possible, and to limit unnecessary sun exposure by wearing protective hats, clothing, and other accessories.

There are six skin types based on the color of people’s natural hair, eyes, and skin as well as their reaction to the sun. As Healthline points out, you might not meet all of the characteristics of one skin type. In my case, I develop my treatments based on the skin type that is closest to my client’s.

Below are the six Fitzpatrick skin types and what you need to know about them:

Skin Type 1

Skin Color: Ivory
Eye Color: Light blue, light gray, or light green
Hair color: Red or light blonde
Reaction to the sun: Always burns, peels, and freckles
Tan level: Never tans

Skin Type 2

Skin Color: Fair or pale
Eye Color: Blue, gray, or green
Hair color: Blonde
Reaction to the sun: Usually burns, peels, or freckles
Tan level: Rarely tans

Notes on skin types 1 and 2: High risk of sun damage, skin aging, melanoma, and other skin cancers. Be sure to always wear sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher

Skin Type 3

Skin Color: Fair to beige with golden undertones
Eye Color: Hazel or light brown
Hair color: Dark blonde or light brown
Reaction to the sun: Occasionally burns, sometimes freckles
Tan level: Sometimes tans

Skin Type 4

Skin Color: Olive or light brown
Eye Color: Dark brown
Hair color: Dark brown
Reaction to the sun: Rarely burns or freckles
Tan level: Usually tans

Skin Type 5

Skin Color: Dark brown
Eye Color: Dark brown to black
Hair color: Dark brown to black
Reaction to the sun: Rarely burns and freckles
Tan level: Always tans

Skin Type 6

Skin Color: Dark to darkest brown
Eye Color: Dark brown
Hair color: Black
Reaction to the sun: Never freckles and burns
Tan level: Always tans darkly

Notes for skin types 3 to 6: In addition to following the same safety advice as skin types 1 and 2, Healthline suggests checking your skin for strange growths from head to toe every each month. The medical website notes that acral lentiginous melanoma “is the dominant form of melanoma among darker-skinned people. It appears on parts of the body not often exposed to the sun.”

My Mental Health Journey: How Therapy Led Me On a Path to Healing

Photo: Kei Moreno

October 10 marks World Mental Health Day — so this blog post couldn’t be more timely. In addition to my spirituality, I owe my success and well-being in part to my decision to take care of my mental health and go to therapy. Through that process, I learned how to love myself and get treatment for substance abuse. This is my story.

Learning to Love Myself Before Others

The idea to go to therapy was planted long ago by a close friend when I was living in Atlanta. I’d gone over to her house to help her prepare for a party. By the time the festivities started, I was already drunk and down. She told me: “You’d have a better time drinking if you dealt with all of the things that are going on with you.”

Years later when I moved here to L.A., my destructive behavior was finally catching up to me. It’s often said that being in a relationship mirrors who you are and where you are in your life, and that couldn’t be more true for me. My unhealthy relationship — and the words of my friend years prior — made me realize for the first time that I didn’t know how to love myself. I was finally ready to go to therapy.

At the time, I was so unaware of myself — I was still drinking and using drugs. In my mind, my hard-partying was glamorous; like something you’d see in a Chloe Sevigny movie. It was how I was avoiding getting to know myself, and I was so removed from my own reality.

I also had unreasonably high expectations of myself — for better or for worse, it’s something I soaked up from the strong, supportive women who were the dominant force in my family. I was so hard on myself for such a long time, and combined with my addiction and my behaviors rooted in trauma, I didn’t realize how much I was hurting my partner.

Deciding to go to therapy on my own made the process easier and learnable. It was through a gay organization, so I felt even safer because they were sensitive to our particular needs. For the next 3 years, my therapist helped me see so many things, even when I was in the midst of addiction. She helped get me onto the path of recovery from alcoholism and drug abuse.

I finally started to understand the things I was going through: Depression, anxiety, you name it. My therapist helped me work through the effects of trauma from the need to survive growing up in the projects, being the victim of rape and molestation as a child, and being abandoned by my mother, to name a few.

How Therapy Made Me a Better Listener

I’ll be the first to admit that love people. But until I knew myself, I was what everyone wanted me to be. It’s something that also helped me be “safe” to people who might have otherwise felt threatened by my Blackness.

In understanding myself, I am now able to truly see people and hear them. As an esthetician, there’s such an intimacy about doing skincare and grooming and having people in your chair and in your space. Through my own mental health journey, I’m excited to continue helping my clients learn to love themselves — whether it’s boosting their self-esteem with a great facial or otherwise.

The Dos and Don'ts of Men's Brow Grooming

Just like the hair on your head and face, your eyebrows should be maintained for a polished and groomed appearance. The right brow shape can help frame your face, accentuate your eyes, and for men, it helps to add balance to your haircut and beard.

Keep reading for my top men’s eyebrow grooming tips.

How often should you groom your brows? Since every brow is different in terms of growth and texture, some may require more attention than others. Generally, once a month is the standard time that I recommend.

Should you trim or pluck your own brows at home? Yes, but only if you are well-versed in the brow shape that’s right for your face. Otherwise, leave it to a professional who understands how to properly shape and trim your brows.

How do you choose the best brow shape for your face? A good eyebrow stylist will understand which brow shape is best for your facial structure. If you’re looking for inspiration, consider photos of people with a similar face shape and compare their eyebrow styles. A good rule of thumb it to go for a natural look.

What are the different types of eyebrow grooming? There are three main types of eyebrow hair removal:

• Threading: Originally from South Asia and the Middle East, threading is a chemical-free hair removal style that uses a long, twisted thread that’s pulled over unwanted brow hair in order to lift it fro the root, and is considered the safest for sensitive skin.

• Waxing: Most are familiar with this method, which involves a strip of wax that’s placed over unwanted hair and then taken off. While it’s a quick way to shape the brow, it can also irritate the skin or burn, especially if the resin is too hot.

• Tweezing: The most time-consuming and often more affordable, tweezing involves plucking the hair with tweezers. It may sound simple and straight-forward, but it really requires that your brow stylist has an eye for detail. Pluck too much, and you risk an overly thin brow or a shape that doesn’t fit well with your face.

How do I which brow grooming method to choose? First, you’ll need to determine whether you have any skin sensitivities that might affect how you groom your brows. In addition to considering which brow shape works best for your face, a good eyebrow stylist will choose the best method for the amount of hair that needs to be removed.

If you live in Los Angeles and are looking for an an expert eyebrow groomer or brow shaper in LA, check out my services and book an appointment with me here.

Why Should Men Give a D*mn About Skin Care?

Gone are the days when the sole purpose of grooming was to attract a date. Men’s skin care isn’t just about putting your best face forward in the office or in your social life — it’s also about maintaining your health.

Now, I know what you’re thinking: “I don’t have time to slather on five different products twice a day!” Or maybe you’re thinking: ‘I don’t care about whether my skin looks good.”

This is where the psychology of “masculinity” comes in.

Traditionally, it used to be that a man’s role was to be a provider: Hunt, kill, bring the food home. In modern times, that translates to being the breadwinner or keeping your emotions to yourself. Likewise, the concept of self-care — whether in the form of getting regular facials, manicures, or massages — has traditionally been seen as “feminine,” “frivolous,” or “superficial.” Consider that the gym has long been a refuge for men to take care of their mental and physical health — how is that not superficial?

Thankfully, toxic masculinity is slowly but surely being chipped away as men are more willing to talk about their mental health and breaking free from gendered stereotypes. As an aesthetician, I’ve seen first-hand how people deprived themselves of things that are good for their health because of their ideas of “male” and “female.”

So back to the original point: Why should men give a damn about skin care

For one, our skin is the largest organ in our body, making it first line of defense when it comes to our health. Taking care of the skin on our face and body should be part of a holistic health routine. While skincare products does help to reduce fine lines, wrinkles, and other signs of aging, first and foremost I believe it’s all about hygiene. In the same way that you take care of your hair, brush your teeth, and cut your nails, skincare is all about strengthening and nourishing the skin so that it can continue to protect you.

As you can see, it’s not just about pampering — and even then, what’s wrong with that? You spend money on a good diet, a gym membership, and clothes that reflect your style. Skin is the protector and guardian of all that, and it needs to come first.

Men’s skin health doesn’t necessarily call for a 12-step routine. It just needs to be efficient and effective. So if you’ve yet to delve into a good skincare routine, I challenge you to be a risk-taker. Take a positive step towards your personal well-being and good health — and stay tuned as I’ll be sharing my best men’s skincare tips soon. 

In the meantime, feel free to check out my LA brow grooming and skin care services and see my treatment menu here.